![]() ![]() It's just as good! And considerably lighter weight! And someday the swappable blade cartridge might come in real handy, but I'm likely to just get a second frame to put the second cartridge into, because they're so affordable! ![]() I've had it about a year now, and the verdict is: So I decided to try a knockoff, specifically the AutomationDirect DN-WS, with the stock blade cartridge. Welp, time to replace it!īut lord, they're expensive new. Gave one away, lost one, and the third finally died after years of heavy use. I got a couple used ones for cheap to see what the hype was all about, and they're simply awesome. Whether they're clad in the AMP or Weidmuller or Paladin branding, they're solid gold. I haven't tried any other strippers for probably over 7 years so there are likely other good products available now but im still on the ones from when I wrote the previous post. I also really like the end stop feature so you can set the perfect strip length for the bootlaces when doing multicores / panel wiring. The biggest positives I've had with them over all others I have used is the consistency of actually cutting instead of stretching the insulation and not damaging cores primarily due to the tension setting. definitely more force required with PVC over flex from 2.5mm2 upwards though. They do have a tension setting on the top fixed jaw and if set too high can bite the copper and make it hard to operate.Īnecdotal, but for 20-12AWG I haven't found it to be overly difficult to squeeze unless the tension adjustment has shifted in my tool bag. Most insulation I have come across has been rubber or PVC which aren't as tough as XLPE.ĮDIT: for smaller single core cables, we only really use xlpe on submains like 35mm2 or bigger. I would advice anyone to try out different tools (perhaps borrow them first instead of buying) and find what works for you. So I'm not saying the others are bad - for me they are - but they may be perfect for you. But it's not fast - for my purpose it doesn't have to be. The little simple one works 95% of the time, and when it doesn't it's because I screwed up. Impossible to get the "easy" ones to work without wasting most of the inserts at failed attempts. I tried a lot of wire strippers and found that a good sharp "basic" model did it for me. Same goes for what's on the bench - it started out small/cheap but as my needs changed so did the equipment. I started out with a $5 Radio Shack multi-meter (still have it), and now I have close to 10 including high precision ones (ok, some aren't fit for real use - just gimmicks). Just like your bench equipment will not fit every type of work you have. I do NOT think there's a single tool that can be used in all types of wire jobs. So I guess we're back to picking the right tool for the job. Add the imprecise length of what it grabs, it produces a lot more work for me. Even the Irwin has problems at 20 Gauge wires - and I often do 22-28 gauge too. Your second option is meant for larger wires and it's absolutely out of the scope for my uses. In other words, I'm not struggling with the tool at all (really hard to do on these simple wire-strippers). I'll admit it takes a bit of practice to get the right strip-length, but adding a few mm when needed is not hard. I may strip about 20-50 in a very busy day, and the static settings on the cheapo stripper works every time. However, as I said earlier - if I had to do 2000 of them, and it stuck to the setting, it definitely makes sense to do it that way. ![]() Having to rotate a screw to guess how long a given thing is, what gauge is set for is not what I consider easy. The Irwin for instance will change distance, wires easily "bend" and you get a much longer or very wrong stripping action. After squeezing, the outer skin of the wire will be cut, and the cut wire outer skin will be peeled off by hand or a vise to complete the stripping.That's really my point here - the "adjustability" is what sucks. ![]() Put the wire into the wire stripping hole and squeeze the wire stripper. Be sure to close the blade tightly and place it in a place where children cannot reach out.ġ.First, move the locking paddle of the crimping pliers to make the wire stripping pliers open.Ģ.Find the stripping hole that is close to the thickness of the wire to be stripped but slightly smaller than the thickness of the wire.ģ. In order not to hurt people and objects around the fragment, please confirm the direction of the fragment's splash before cutting it.ģ. There are many types of wire strippers, and the specifications produced by different cable stripper manufacturers are not the same.When users buy wire strippers, they can also judge which types of products to choose according to some parameter reports provided by the merchant.Ģ. ![]()
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